"Since the Cuenllas family opened their butter shop in 1939 on Calle Ferraz, this surname has been synonymous with quality gastronomy in Madrid. First as a grocery store and, since the eighties, also as a wine and tapas bar. Now Cuenllas has surprised us with the opening of a new wine bar in an old carriage passage at number 4 Calle Orellana. No one should look here for its legendary marrow canapés, foie gras or the salad that is eaten at Ferraz. The chef Elena Viso Muñoz gives free rein to the knowledge acquired in restaurants such as Fismuler, where she started as a kitchen assistant and ended up as head waiter, La Candela Restó or Nakeima. "Anyone who has eaten at all three will find bits of them in the dishes on this menu. I owe a lot to Patxi Zumárraga, Gonzalo Palmero and Samy Alí," she says fondly. The pickled cabbage flowers (11 euros) or the candied artichoke hot dog with Cinco Jotas ham (14 euros) are good examples of this.

With this project, Fernando Cuenllas wanted to set up the bar that he would go to as a customer and also continue with the essence of the family project. That is why, in this small and charming space decorated by Patricia de Salas and Beatriz Mezquíriz of the Pez store, there is a wall with select gourmet products to buy and shelves with bottles of wine that are difficult to find in other places in the city.

Once you sit down – at one of the tables inside or on the terrace – you have to leave yourself in the hands of the sommelier, be amazed by each of his successful suggestions and try Elena's creations. The menu is short, fresh, designed for sharing and Elena cooks with some of the products sold in the shop. You can sample from 1:30 to 3:30 p.m. and from 8:30 to 10:30 p.m. And for now they only accept reservations through Instagram or by stopping by the restaurant directly. At other times, Cuenllas Salesas displays its entire wine cellar and some quality cold snacks such as anchovies from Santoña or cecina leonesa de buey. Because, as its menu says: “ No coffee, no coke… Enjoy your grape juice ”. It is the new temple of those who enjoy discovering wines.

Extract from the note by Almudena Ávalos and published by El País .